Leh is buzzing, as locals make the most of the short tourist season. Four-wheel drives zip through town, with boats tied to their roofs for white-water rafting ; the rhythmic tapping of tiny hammers echo from jewellery shops; and Kashmiri merchants, laden with carpets, shift their latest deliveries into freshly-painted shop fronts.
Read MoreIt's a great inspiration for the modern traveller, with a certain sadness, as you know that trail can never be done in the same way again. It certainly makes me want to find my own trail.
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